Historical notes
The name Tellaro suggests one of the most flourishing and ancient forms of trade in the village, that of fabrics and cloths.
The area where the village is located was inhabited since VIII B.C. by the ancient Etruscans who founded Luni, today's Lerici. The Ligurians soon arrived, followed by the Romans, who, more than anyone else, increased the commercial vein of the area, first under the dominion of Pisa and then of Genoa.
Until the 14th century, Tellaro was just a small fortified citadel, an outpost of Barbazzano (of which only a few ruins remain today, reachable by a path through the vegetation) with the function of sighting and opposing the Saracens from the sea who so often brought devastation and death. In 1348, decimated by the plague and harassed by the constant Saracen attacks, the citizens moved to the fortress of Tellaro, which over time grew into a village. Its economy is based, in the past as now, on agriculture, fishing, olive growing and tourism, which began in the 19th century with the arrival of illustrious members of European high society.
Discovering the historic centre of the village
Tellaro is a picture-postcard village, with its narrow alleyways, tall coloured houses typical of the Ligurian coast and picturesque views of the Gulf of La Spezia: this is the setting for many events such as the Octopus Festival and the evocative Underwater Christmas, during which the statue of the Baby Jesus re-emerges from the sea to be laid in its manger in the Stella Maris Church.
The heart of Tellaro is the central Piazza della Marina, perfect for tasting the local specialities in the osterias overlooking the gulf. Not to be missed are the octopus all'inferno (stewed with chilli, tomato and bay leaves), mussels alla spezzina (stuffed with eggs, mortadella, breadcrumbs and parmesan), sweet focaccia with sultanas and pine nuts, but above all octopus tellarese style (boiled and dressed with lemon and potatoes). In Piazza della Marina there is a small slipway for pulling fishing boats to shore and two stone basins where the waters of the Capoàigua stream once flowed and were used as wash houses. From the same square, a splendid promenade begins that runs along the sea as far as the iconic Grò rock, from which the view sweeps over the entire Gulf of La Spezia and the islands of Tinetto, Tino and Palmaria.
The sixteenth-century Church of San Giorgio is Tellaro's main place of worship and, with its pink façade, stands close to the sea: inside you can admire a nineteenth-century organ and a splendid altarpiece dating from the sixteenth century. The bell tower of the church was the ancient watchtower that towered over the walls surrounding the village: legend has it that the church bells were rung one night in the 17th century by a giant octopus that emerged from the sea and warned the population of the imminent arrival of Saracen pirates.
Tellaro's other ancient watchtower is incorporated into the 17th-century Oratory of S.Maria in Selàa, which was deconsecrated during the Second World War and is now a venue for contemporary art events and exhibitions.
Finally, one of the things you absolutely must see in Tellaro is the Sotto-Ria, a gallery that winds its way under the buildings facing the sea: this 70-metre-long walkway was nothing more than the curtain wall of the ancient Tellaro fortress and has a barrel vault, a mosaic floor and large windows from which you could see the possible arrival of enemy ships.
What to do in Tellaro, between beaches and excursions
As well as discovering the beauties of the historic centre of Tellaro, you cannot enjoy the splendid sea that washes the village's shores.
Those who love the sand can reach the Spiaggioni di Tellaro by rather rough and barren paths, which, thanks to their shallow waters, are perfect for families with children.
Away from Tellaro there are the white sandy San Terenzo Beach, the Baia della Coletta with the remains of a Roman ship in the seabed and the Fiascherino Beach close to Lerici: a sandy beach, partly free and partly equipped, separated by a green rocky peninsula covered with maritime pines.
From Tellaro it is possible to make a series of excursions in the nature, for example to discover the nearby Lerici, through the path 433 or to Zanego along a path paved with stones.
From the village you can then reach Monte Murlo, where there is a botanical garden with a view of the Apuan Alps, and then Montemarcello: the path is 8 km long and winds in the first part among the olive trees and the Mediterranean maquis along the coast, while the final part takes place inland among groves of pines, downy oaks and Turkey oaks. Further on, you reach Punta Corvo, a spectacular little beach reached by descending 700 wooden steps.
