Majestic and solemn, St. Peter’s Basilica stands atop the hill of the same name, the ancient site of the Etruscan acropolis, in an extraordinarily evocative landscape and archaeological setting. The complex, flanked by medieval watchtowers and nestled among Etruscan sarcophagi and Roman remains, represents one of the absolute masterpieces of Romanesque art in central Italy and an identifying symbol of the city of Tuscania.
Probably founded in the 8th century on the remains of a pagan temple, the church has undergone numerous interventions over time. Its present appearance dates largely from the 11th and 12th centuries, when the aisles, crypt and apses were rebuilt, and later the nave was lengthened. The façade, among the most fascinating of the Romanesque-Lombard style, is punctuated by three portals: the central one, made by a Roman marble worker, is surmounted by a loggia with eleven blind arcades. The upper part, in Umbrian taste, is dominated by a large white rose window, symbol of the Trinity with three concentric circles, flanked by two mullioned windows framing allegories of Good and Evil.
The interior, with three naves, welcomes a precious cosmatesque floor and rich sculptural decoration of the capitals. The transept is raised and houses two ancient ciboriums, dating from the 11th and 13th centuries. The frescoes, largely attributed to the central Romanesque cycle, narrate the lives of Christ, the Apostles and the Baptist, and are partly preserved in the apse area, which was severely damaged in the 1971 earthquake that hit Tuscania hard. The saved fragments are now on display in the bishop’s palace adjacent to the church.
Of particular note is the crypt below the chancel, dating from the 11th century: a striking nine-aisled space with cross vaults, supported by 28 columns with perusal capitals from Roman buildings. Its orientation is opposite that of the basilica and it houses 14th-century frescoes, including a Madonna Enthroned and depictions of the patron saints of Tuscania: Secondiano, Veriano and Marcelliano.
In the medieval period, the hill was fortified and became a true ecclesiastical fortress, surrounded by towers and defensive structures; some of these towers are still visible, enriching the impressive view from the site. After the French sackings of 1495, the area began to depopulate, leaving St. Peter’s in splendid isolation, which still enhances its mystical aura.
Also famous as an international film set, the basilica has hosted filming for such movies as Orson Welles’ Othello, Zeffirelli’s Romeo and Juliet, and Pasolini’s The Gospel According to St. Matthew.
Today, St. Peter’s Basilica in Tuscania is an artistic and spiritual jewel, blending Etruscan history, Roman classicism and medieval faith, surrounded by one of the most striking views in upper Lazio, overlooking the Marta River valley and the surrounding Etruscan necropolis.