Italy is one of the richest countries in terms of UNESCO sites, some made by the hand of man and others instead the work of Mother Nature: well the perfect mix between these two categories is the Amalfitan Coast, a wonder that has fascinated tourists from all over the world for centuries. It is a portion of coastline, between Vietri sul Mare and Positano, overlooking the Gulf of Salerno. The Amalfi Coast appears like a painting to those visiting it for the first time, with sheer cliffs overlooking the sea, dotted with Mediterranean scrub and picturesque villages, guardians of legends, art and ancient history. The road itself to visit them all, the SS163 Amalfitana, is itself a wonder that, like a winding ribbon, winds over the headlands for 50 km, between scenic hairpin bends.

The Amalfi Coast: historical background

The very first inhabitants to set foot on the Amalfi Coast were the Etruscans who, taking advantage of the presence of natural coves and inlets, built the first ports that made this territory a crossroads of goods, people and culture. They were later succeeded by the Greeks, who founded cities here such as Paestum, the City of Posidonia, Elea (the future Roman Velia) and especially Neapolis. At Punta Campanella, a destination for diving enthusiasts and a place where the Gulf of Naples and the Gulf of Salerno merge, there are still the remains of the Temple of Athena, built in a scenic rocky cleft. Then came the Romans, who chose the coast to erect their splendid dwellings, with ancient terms: perhaps the most beautiful is that of Minori dating from the 1st AD, built near the mouth of the Regina Minor River, of which splendid frescoes and mosaics still remain. The first villages began to spring up in the Middle Ages, a period during which the Maritime Republic of Amalfi was also born: this was also the time of the first Saracen raids from the sea and the consequent construction of watchtowers, designed to warn enemies in time to save the population. Many of these buildings are now ruins, others have been converted into accommodations: the one that to date has been best preserved is the tower of Punta Campanella, commissioned by Pedro de Toledo, viceroy of Naples. Speaking of Punta Campanella, legend bewitches this enchanting place, recounting the home of three mermaids, Leucasia, Ligea and Agerola: they inhabited the sea in front of them and enchanted sailors with their song, causing their boats to smash along the rocks.

Amalfi Coast: what to see

The symbolic village of the coast is of course Amalfi, whose name refers to the mythological figure of Hercules’ love, buried here to be eternally cradled by the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea. The town’s main monument is the Cathedral of St. Andrew, in its distinct Arabesque style that blends with Rococo, Romanesque, and Baroque elements. Also worth seeing are the Arsenal Museum, linked to the town’s maritime history, and the Paper Museum, where it is possible to learn more about bambagina, a special and valuable paper that even Frederick II relegated only to private written acts. Atrani essentially represents the natural continuation of Amalfi and rises just beyond the Valle dei Mulini, between the Aureo and Civita mountains, right at the entrance to the Dragon Valley. In this village, in the Church of San Salvatore de’ Birecto, even the dukes of Amalfi were crowned. Also worth a visit are the Grotto of the Saints, rich in Byzantine-style frescoes, and the Grotto Masaniello. From Atrani you can easily reach the Valle delle Ferriere, a spectacular natural oasis full of tropical plants, thundering waterfalls and cool springs where you can cool off on hot summer days. Positano is another of the most famous villages on the Amalfi Coast and legend has it that it was founded following the landing of Saracens on the night of Ferragosto. Positano’s skyline is characterized by the majolica-tiled dome of the Church of the Assumption, stunning when the sun’s rays caress it: the view is truly spectacular from the Spiaggia Grande, located right at the foot of the village. From Positano, particularly from the hamlet of Nocelle inland, also starts the famous Sentiero degli Dei that, crossing the Monti Lattari among spectacular views, reaches Agerola. Maiori and Minori are the two locations with the largest beaches, particularly that of Maiori, which is in fact the largest on the entire Amalfi Coast. Minori, on the other hand, is also particularly famous for the Villa Romana Marittima: this is an archaeological site linked to the remains of a domus from the Julio-Claudian age, with an Antiquarium annex full of ancient artifacts found during excavations. During a vacation on the Amalfi Coast, one cannot fail to stop at Vietri sul Mare, beautiful with the offshore stacks of the Two Brothers and its colorful ceramics, to which a Museum inside Villa Guariglia in the hamlet of Raito is also dedicated. Green, blue, and yellow are the ceramics that cover the dome of the Church of St. John the Baptist, Vietri sul Mare’s main house of worship. Then how can we fail to mention Ravello, located 350 meters above sea level at the foot of the Lattari Mountains: this is the village that is home to the International Festival dedicated to classical music, in light of the sojourn that the composer Wagner made in the 1800s with his wife. Ravello is home to the medieval Villa Rufolo and the marvelous Villa Cimbrone, from whose Terrace of Infinity you have one of the most beautiful views of the Gulf of Salerno and the coast. BetweenConca dei Marini, one of the smallest villages in all of Italy, and Praiano, then rises Furore, a scattered municipality with houses positioned on several terraces planted with vineyards: it is here that the very small and scenic fjord carved over time by the Schiato River rises.

Folklore, crafts and good food

Getting to know the Amalfi Coast in depth also means experiencing traditions and festivals with very ancient origins, also linked to historical events that really happened: this is what happens during the Regatta delle Antiche Repubbliche Marinare that takes place in the summer off the coast of Amalfi. The event also includes a beautiful historical procession that roams the streets of the town, with ladies, knights, judges and soldiers. Not to be missed, also in Amalfi, is the Feast of St. Andrew, which takes place in both November and June: while in the fall the faithful witness the hoped-for liquefaction of the saint’s blood, in the summer the miracle of the saint who unleashed a storm on the fleet of the pirate Khayr al-DÄ “n Barbarossa in 1544 is remembered. Very beautiful and characteristic is the fishermen’s race from the harbor to Amalfi Cathedral, even braving the entire staircase leading inside the church. Neither is the Good Friday Way of the Cross in Amalfi, with the procession parading through the streets of a totally dark village, lit only by candles. Those who love good food, on the other hand, can participate in the summer festival in Cetara dedicated to tuna: this village is also linked to the famous colatura di alici, a must in the gastronomic heritage of the Amalfi Coast. Among the other typicalities of the area are the Limoni di Amalfi IGP, thanks to which real delicacies such as limoncello and the delizia al limone di Minori are prepared. Absolutely not to be missed, then, are sfogliatelle, which, contrary to what you might think, were not really born in Naples but in Conca dei Marini, at the Monastery of Santa Rosa located on a scenic rocky ledge. As for the typical handicrafts of the Amalfi Coast, one cannot fail to mention the ceramics of Vietri sul Mare and especially the linen clothes of Positano, in whose boutiques it is also possible to buy strictly handmade sandals, crocheted swimsuits and lace skirts, for an unmistakable style that has now made its way around the world.